California’s most overlooked state park inspires visitors to ponder their place in the universe

Melissa Curtin loves sharing her globetrotting tales as a travel and food writer for numerous publications. For your next L.A. or California adventure, check out her website LaLaScoop and follow her on Instagram.

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A big thank you to Highway West Vacations Borrego Springs for hosting this trip so I could write this detailed review of my experience.

My eyes began adjusting to the night sky as my iPhone went dark. A pack of coyotes howled, their calls echoing around our silent retreat. In under 30 minutes, I am dazzled by several shooting stars, one that blazes across the night sky like a fiery comet.

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is California’s first and only designated Dark Sky Community. Nestled deep in eastern San Diego County, stargazers can rejoice anywhere in this 615,000-acre protected area, as Borrego Springs’ desert mountain landscape is far from city light pollution. The park takes its name from the 18^thcentury Spanish explorer Juan Bautista de Anza. Borrego Springs appeared on a map in 1883 but was spelled incorrectly as borego. The Spanish word “borrego” means sheep or yearling lamb.

Stars in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park in California

The best time to visit Anza Borrego Desert State Park is in winter when temperatures are low or when a good rain brings a wildflower superbloom across the desert landscape, typically from February through April, depending on the year. While early January brings the 5-day Borrego Springs Film Festival to the area – with screenings, receptions, and galas – March seems to be the sweet spot for wildflowers. But hotels fill up fast, so plan accordingly, as the same month brings a weeklong paint-out event featuring 14 invited artists to paint en plein air.

Sculptures in Anza Borrego State Park in California. Galleta Meadows.

Less than two hours’ drive from Palm Springs or San Diego, Anza Borrego makes an easy getaway and you can stop at other interesting places along the way, like the mountain town of Julian or the Salton Sea, where Slab City and Salvation Mountain can be found on its east shore.

Make the most of your time in this peaceful lunarlike landscape with some of our favorite finds. Just remember to pack your sunscreen and hiking shoes.

8 ways to explore the beauty of the Anza-Borrego Desert

Appreciate mid-century desert modern architecture

After seeing the vintage signs, old school restaurants, and retro main street storefront facades in the tiny town of Borrego Springs, take some time to drive through De Anza Country Club to witness 1950s era Desert Modernist homes scattered throughout this 18-hole golf course neighborhood. Originally built in 1958, the mid-century modern club has seen the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Bing Crosby, and John Wayne.

Hike into a slot canyon and desert palm oasis

Incredible hiking options abound, like slot canyons and hiking through a palm canyon oasis, where bighorn sheep can often be seen at dusk. Be prepared to drive over an unmaintained dirt road for about a mile to reach the entrance for this Slot Canyon hike. You may want to arrive early to avoid crowds and heat. Once parked, you will the spot the entrance not far from the parking area. Climb down into the narrow slot canyon ravine, where sandstone cliffs tower 40 feet high and can be less than a foot wide in some areas. Formed by flash floods and wind and water erosion, some spots are so narrow you have to squeeze your way through along this mile-long trek.

Light peeps from above and at one point, a slanted rock slab is broken off that reminds me of Thor’s hammer, which bridges a narrow gap in the canyon above. You can turn around and come back the same distance or go a bit farther down the wash, which turns into a dirt road surrounded by rocky boulders that appear like alien homes with Martian windows. Explore beautiful wind caves on the north side of the canyon and turn around to walk back. Note there is a $10 parking fee and no dogs are allowed.

Another memorable hike is the three-mile Palm Canyon trail, where bighorn sheep can be spotted, often at sunrise or dusk, when they come down for water. Hike to one of the largest palm oases in California – still with burnt trunks from former fires but with new green growth. Stroll past spectacular crimson-tipped ocotillo, wildflowers, Palo Verde blooms, cactus blooms, Desert Lilies, cholla cacti, and fan palms (in spring) – into a canyon towards a small waterfall and trickling stream. Winter and spring are great times to visit. Bring water and wear sunscreen since this hike is not shaded.

Take a desert safari to admire grand metal sculptures of Galleta Meadows

The stars aren’t the only thing that shines in this lunar land. Over 130 massive metal sculptures are scattered across the desert – from prehistoric animals to mythical creatures – thanks to “accidental artist” Ricardo Breceda. Admire shadows cast from these large-scale creatures or pose with the 350-foot serpent that stretches across the highway.

Ponder your place in the universe at Borrego Springs, a wild land that feels at times like a primeval safari adventure. Drive around Galleta Meadows to snap photos of these rusty red creatures – from an insect skirmish (grasshopper versus a scorpion), to a prospector panning for gold, to horses rearing. Look closely, as the metal details – used to create feathers, scales, and teeth – are impressive.

Tour the Borrego Night Sky

At UCI Steele/Burnand Anza-Borrego Desert Research Center, an astronomer set up telescopes to enlighten us about the planets, stars, and constellations that appear in mid-November, with my own Taurus constellation springing forth right in front of me. Like a sister to the state park, the center connects the public to astronomers and academic researchers by throwing public and private night sky events, educational star parties, astro photography workshops, and more.

Renowned astronomer Dennis Mammana writes, lectures, and photographs the dark night skies here in Anza-Borrego desert. And on nights with no moonlight, he uses his high-powered telescopes to provide personalized cosmos tours. Truly out of this world, find his availability at BorregoNightSkyTours.com.

The Perseid Meteor Shower occurs every year in early August as the earth crosses the orbital path of the Swift-Turtle Comet, producing a dazzling array of shooting stars. One astronomer told us the best time to see the night sky is February and March.

Explore Borrego Art Institute and Gardens

Borrego Springs is a village completely surrounded by Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, with a population of about 4,000. In the center of town, stroll through the Borrego Art Institute, nearby sculpture ArtPark garden, and community desert gardens.

“Small Town, Big Art” is the motto at the Art Institute, featuring rotating exhibits that inspire guests. When I visited, an artist turned lost objects into found art, many selling at reasonable prices. Classes and lectures are offered here, free to children. What amazed me most was the community spirit. I saw signs for free music lessons in town but also at the three-acre ArtPark garden, surrounded by repurposed neon art sculptures, complimentary plants and soil – all provided to community members along with the communal garden. Learning Labs through aquaponics, soil studies, and irrigation for all ages, teach how to be smart with water use (fish farming), how to enrich soil, and grow seedlings – something so necessary in a desert environment.

The Anza Borrego Desert Natural History Association, Chamber of Commerce, and visitor’s bureau offer a wealth of information nearby, with one area offering outside plaques describing the flora, fauna, and history of the area.

Drive out to Fonts Point for sunrise or sunset

Only attempt this with a four-wheel drive vehicle, as this bumpy four-mile dirt road drive isn’t for the faint of heart. But it ends with dramatic, sweeping, rippling, sandy views of Anza Borrego’s badlands that stretch all the way to the Salton Sea. Apparently, this area receives one to three earthquakes per day from the Coyote Creek fault line that runs beneath.

Nosh on noteworthy eats

Every Friday from November to April, a farmer’s market can be found in Christmas Circle Community Park from 8 am ‘till noon, where you can purchase native honey, avocados, and rare locally grown produce like cherimoyas.

For pre- or post-hike fuel, whet your appetite with these tasty options. At Red Ocotillo, order American comfort food with fresh ingredients for brunch, lunch, or dinner at this roadside outdoor patio with birds and windchimes. A big menu offers options like hearty homemade meatloaf, steak taco salad in a crisp tortilla, and their famous coffee cake.

Step into the quaint Big Horn Saloon with a big horned sheep glass window in the back of Big Horn Burgers and Shakes at Palm Canyon RV and Resort for a spicy blood orange margarita before washing down a burger and onion rings with a cookies and cream milkshake.

Carmelita’s Mexican Grill serves local Mexican grub. This popular low-key cantina from the Dorado family showcases dishes heaping with rice, refried beans, and homemade tortillas. Try a Grande Cadillac Margarita with shrimp and cheese quesadillas, shrimp fajitas, Albondigas (Mexican meatball) soup, carnitas, Chile Relleno, and shredded beef crunchy tacos. Locals love the Carne Asada Steak Dinner and the happy hour specials.

Choose your own hotel adventure

Watch the sun rise as the desert animals awaken, or take in the peaceful sunset over rocky mountainscapes – all from one of these unique hotels.

Part of Highway West Vacations collection of unique lodging, Borrego Valley Inn is an adults-only property donned in desert western artifacts interspersed with Zen native gardens of cactus and green Palo Verde trees. Two heated pools (one clothing optional) and a jacuzzi are great for chilly nights under the stars. Expect contactless check-in and spacious rooms with private patios and amazing desert views perfect for stargazing. Breakfast is delivered daily – with warm croissants, yogurt, fruit, and juice – at your preferred time.

Just down the road, immerse yourself in the Wild West at Palm Canyon Hotel & RV Resort, another Highway West Vacations option with vintage glamping options, RV hookups, Airstreams, hotel rooms and more.

Built in 1947, The Palms at Indian Head was once a favorite getaway for Hollywood stars in the 1950s – like Charles Laughton, Leo Carrillo, Andy Devine, Clark Gable, Lon Chaney Jr., Will Rogers, Bing Crosby, James Arness, Frank Morgan and Marilyn Monroe. The property once featured a landing strip, an oversized Olympic pool, cocktail lounge, restaurant, bungalow retreats, horseback riding, shuffleboard, and tennis. Today, this retro haunt offers 12 rooms on 20 acres of dreamy desert. Book the second-floor corner room with floor-to-ceiling glass windows at this midcentury modern hotel, to watch the sunrise or slip into their original giant pool or jacuzzi under the stars, after dining at the old school steakhouse. There is an art gallery on site, a secret bar, and evidence of pink ramshackle buildings nearby (former bungalows people escaped to back in the day for a holiday), which make interesting opportunities for a photo shoot.