Thank you to Montenegro Tourism for hosting me on this trip so I could write this detailed account about my experience.
Perched above the Bay of Kotor, standing on my Airbnb’s ancient terrace above red tiled roofs, I watch in awe as the sunset hues splash over the calm waters of Perast, in view of the islets of St. George and Our Lady of the Rocks. The stillness eases my mind as only the sounds of church bells and birds can be heard. If I have found the best place in Europe to get away from it all, it is here – in this tiny idyllic seaside town of 400 people – with narrow stone alleyways stuffed with palaces, stunning Baroque architecture, and over a dozen crumbling romantic churches. Just down below, fresh fish and pasta await, without a reservation. Mesmerized by this peaceful town on my last trip to the Balkans, I knew I had to find my way back to this Adriatic jewel, if only for a night.
It’s easy to slow down in Perast, Montenegro, especially in the fall. Once part of the Venetian Republic in 1624 and the site of the Great Raid, where 2,000 pirates ransacked and ravaged the town, the people of Perast stood their ground and did not surrender to the Ottomon Empire. Strong and resilient, they refused to leave their homes and did what they could to retrieve the kidnapped.
Strangely, today the Montenegrin mantra boasts the country’s stereotype of idleness with funny proverbs such as:
Men was born tired and need to get rest.
Love yourself as your bed.
Rest during the day so you can sleep at night.
Work as little as you can and what you can, let another do it.
No one has died of resting yet.
Maybe they just know how to enjoy life more and prioritize accordingly. As the country embraces the art of doing nothing, they even have a contest to see who can lay down the longest.
While tourism is on the rise in this small country of less than 650,000 people, and many travelers flock to nearby Italy and Croatia, Montenegro’s virgin unspoiled land will stun you and make you want to visit more than just a few days. While most tourists gravitate to Montenegro’s preserved medieval port towns, you can find adventure everywhere. A new mountaintop retreat accessible by gondola is Montenegro’s new draw, as cooler temperatures can be found atop Lovćen National Park as well as a plethora of activities for all types of interests.
Begin your Montenegrin exploration in the mountains or on a lake, in the vineyards or on the sea, as the mild Mediterranean climate makes traveling here pleasurable any time of year – with over 267 days of sun.
Experience 10 memorable moments in Montenegro
Explore Biogradska Gora National Park and horseback ride in the mountains
The mountains are calling and they are just a short drive from the coast! The name “Montenegro” means “black horse” and in the north a bevy of outdoor possibilities await.
Take the mountain road from Budva for spiraling coastal views and an abandoned castle as you careen above the untouched land. Biogradska Gora is the last virgin forest remaining on the continent and is the oldest national park in Montenegro, founded in 1878, not long after Yellowstone. The Biogradska lake lays in the heart of the National Park, surrounded by a think forest which makes a nice stop for a packed lunch or soaking in the scenery, especially in fall when the leaves start to show their hues.
From the mountains in Bjelasica, ride horseback off-road to the Mountain Hut Vranjak, 1,740 meters above sea level, to an awe-inspiring viewpoint, situated at the foothills of the three highest peaks in Bjelasica. Feel the fresh mountain air as you bump along on a dramatic wild mountain ride. Learn more.
Try authentic Montenegrin mountain dishes
At warm and cozy restaurant Konoba Amanet, above Podgorica in the town of Kolašin (known as the country’s outdoor enthusiast area and ski capital), explore the local mountain cuisine heavy in cheeses, beef, slow cooked lamb, potatoes, and veal prepared “under the lid.” As you sit in one of their traditional wooden 3-legged chairs known as stolovača, start with an assortment of Montenegro’s well-known prosciuttos and cheeses like Kacamak similar to a cheesy mashed potato dish – and Kolašin, a thin layered cheese exclusive to the northern and central part of the country. This cheese is unique due to the specific composition of flora that free ranging cows feed upon in the upland pastures, as well as the area’s microclimatic conditions. Every attempt to make this cheese elsewhere has failed. The producers from the region are proud of their cheese, and for years have been trying to register the procedure for the protection of the geographic origin.
Visit a cheese farm or a local home in Lipovo for a homemade lunch with smoked prosciutto, homemade breads, fruits, farmer’s yogurt, and the traditional thin layered cow’s milk cheese from Kolasin. Here friendly dogs and cats live peacefully and love attention.
Stay nearby at Hotel Bianca or, as you make your way back down to Budva or the Bay, consider staying at the new Oblun Eco Resort, part of Skadar Lake National Park situated a 10-to-15-minute walk above the largest lake in Europe. Glamping options abound, like mirrored cabins and luxurious tents nestled deep in nature, complete with breakfast and the opportunity to experience a traditional dinner – lovingly prepared with offerings like salmon, fresh veggies, marinated carp, Montenegro’s famous charcuterie, and the local grape varietals.
Drive the serpentine mountain road above Bay of Kotor
Considered one of the best coastal drives in the world, 16+ switchbacks (hairpin turns) spiral you up above the Bay. The altitude and steep overhangs made me dizzy but the views hanging over the Bay of Kotor are worth it. The narrow road and cliff-hugging drive were a harrowing surprise. However, my expert driver booked with Daytrip to get me from Perast to Pordgorica made me feel safe. He even stopped at several places to let me soak in the stellar views, one with a cafe jutting out from dizzying heights, as we were 1,000 meters high. As you spiral up the 8 kilometers, take a break at Restaurant Nevjesta Jadrana to bask in the spectacular fjord scenery.
Sip wines at Radevic Estate
Montenegro makes fabulous fully organic wines with a similar climate as California. Red wine is called “black wine.” A country smaller than Rhode Island, Montenegro has the largest wine region in Europe, in relation to the country’s total size. White and black Vranetz (black horse) are the native grapes that are only grown in the Balkans, genetically related to Zinfandel. We toured Radevic Estate to sample wines from grapes first planted in 2007. The owner, Goran, is a doctor-turned-winemaker who is following his passion to work with his hands in a new way. Today, Radevic has won notoriety from many awards and partners with the high-end hotel brand, Aman.
By appointment only, and just 10 minutes outside Podgorica, book a two-hour tour to experience Radevic wines such as Vranac, Cabernet, Syrah, Rose, and Chardonnay, along with their signature “Renee” dessert wine, signature cognac, and fruit schnapps. Don’t miss the full bodied Vranac, the indigenous black skinned mountainous grape with notes of dark fruit earth and spice.
In the estate’s wine boutique, admire a hanging corroded wine vessel that was a gift from a friend’s underwater wine cellar, located in Kotor, that started aging wines at the bottom of the sea in 2021.
Dine in Perast for sunset dinner and boat offshore to Our Lady of the Rocks
Delight in a meal seaside for sunset, at either Grand Heritage Perast or Djardin. At enchanting seafood restaurant Djardin, try the local catch, uber fresh seafood carpaccio, eggplant parmesan, or savory gnocchi. End with the Perast cake made with almond flour and elderflower essence. Appreciate this little coastal village by spending the night at either historic boutique hotel.
During the day, don’t miss taking a boat ride for five euros from Perast, just offshore to Our Lady of the Rocks, where according to legend, on July 22, 1452, two brothers found an image of the Virgin Mary on a rock in the sea. They took the icon back to Perast, but it disappeared and reappeared on the rock multiple times. The brothers swore on oath to build a church to house the icon. Visit this church on the tiny islet, built by sunken ships filled with rocks, to admire the views, hanging dried bouquets left by former weddings, and numerous art pieces, even one on the mantle by Caravaggio. According to tradition, make a wish by placing your hand on the “Madonna rock” behind the alter, as it is believed the Virgin Mary will grant it.
Soar above Kotor Bay on a Cable Car Ride
Only one year old, a new Kotor Cable Car cruises guests on a four-kilometer journey up 1,348 meters to a mountaintop in Lovćen National Park for a bird’s eye view of Kotor Bay. The ride takes about 10 minutes. The best part is you can make a day of it in cooler temperatures at a cliff hugging restaurant, a casual cliffside lounge bar, an Alpine coaster, on rentable e-bikes, or enjoying a myriad of marked hiking trails. A Medieval times adventure station showcases an interactive learning display of swords, helmets, and armor – along with milling, printing, and blacksmithing – that bring the history of the bay alive. Stay tuned for events and concerts at an amphitheater built into one of the sinkholes surrounded by the awe-inspiring landscape. Soon, guests will be able to zipline, shop at a local market, and dine at a rotating restaurant in the sky – all atop this “sacred alter” mountain where rulers, bishops, and poets once emerged as some of the most prominent figures in Montenegrin history.
Lunch at Zlijebi Village, a Stone Village in Herceg Novi
This well-preserved centuries-old mountain village boasts views of the Adriatic, 700 meters above sea level. Admired for its stone architecture and stone roofs, your host Nikola welcomes guests with rakija (brandy) and homemade doughnuts, as he engages guests with the history of the place. Enjoy one of their summertime cultural events and call ahead to reserve a time to dine at Konoba Sikimic, fireside in the restored restaurant – featuring local flavors prepared with authentic traditional cooking methods, and all produce from the land, including the wine. Savor cured prosciutto made in-house, a selection of regional cheeses, fresh salads, pitas, and polentas. For the main course, bite into luscious lamb or veal made “under the bell” with potatoes slow cooked under a bed of hot coals, resulting in tender meat and veggies bursting with flavor.
Slurp mussels and oysters on a Boat Ride in Boka Bay
Cruise Kotor Bay with passionate local Captain Ivan, who can tailor a private trip to your liking – including fishing, swimming, a visit to Our Lady of the Rocks, the blue cave, and a local oyster and mussel farm to delight in the bay’s bounty (where they produce about 20,000 oysters annually). The aquamarine water is so clear. Ask him to point out a former Yugoslav submarine laying on its side, still visible below, and savor the sunset splash across the surrounding mountains and town of Perast. Surely a day you won’t forget in this stunning setting with pristine blue waters.
Stroll Kotor’s Old Town
This beautiful historic town on the coast is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, hugged by thousand-year-old walls and filled with enchanting Venetian buildings and museums. After strolling this medieval town with winding streets, squares, and Romanesque churches, dine at historic Cattaro in a renovated 18th century boutique hotel or on their terrace, part of the city’s walls, when your legs are ready for a rest.
Stay at the One & Only Portonovi
For a lavish hotel experience, plan a stay in the One&Only’s “new riviera” at the start or end of your Montenegro trip. Don’t plan to leave, as this five-star property is an oasis in itself. The One & Only Portonovi sits on 60 acres and has numerous outdoor pools and an indoor pool that rivals the grandeur of California’s Hearst Castle. A makeshift beachfront with comfy beds aligned with fanciful umbrellas is something one might imagine in the south of France. It’s easy to truly unwind here in the heart of Boka Bay, starting a day with an over the top breakfast spread of local ingredients on the manicured great lawn, followed by a bite of sushi poolside, or a sip of Montenegrin wine on your private terrace suite in view of the mountain vistas and calm waters.
Rooms are stylishly filled with interesting décor, like you’ve stepped into a designer’s home, complete with comfy beds and gigantic bathrooms bigger than most city apartments. Japanese toilets enhance the comfort and a Smart system offers control of lighting, sheers, and curtains from bed. Anything is possible at the One&Ony, from a private tennis coach, a wellness check with a medical doctor, a fitness session with a view, or an herbal or rose petal bath drawn at your time of specification. It is, by far, one of the most luxurious hotel properties you can find in the world.
For those who prefer to venture beyond the resort, just five minutes away, the Portonovi marina is stuffed with billionaire yachts and the opportunity to choose from a robust selection of high-end sushi restaurants for unbeatable prices.
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