If you’re following along on our Tahiti adventure, this is part three. After flying from Los Angeles to Papeete (part 1) and staying in a house rental instead of a hotel (part 2), we finally hit the sites.
The first few days brought an unusual and unprecedented storm. It rained so hard I wasn’t sure our tour, arranged by the tourism board, was still on. I messaged our guide, Marie-Jeanne Nordhoff from Nordhoff Adventure, via WhatsApp to check, and she quickly replied, “I just arrived at your house.” Sure enough, she was waiting in her comfortable van. I invited her in since she was early and we were still getting ready. The kids gave her a tour of our amazing vacation rental and then we were off.
For our tour, we were reminded to pack a backpack with a swimsuit, towel, hat, change of clothes, flip-flops, mosquito repellent and ecological-friendly sunscreen. Marie-Jeanne was incredibly friendly and knowledgeable. Born in Tahiti, she shared that her grandfather was Charles Bernard Nordhoff (1887–1947) who co-authored Mutiny on the Bounty with James Norman Hall. She leads small guided excursions, particularly half-day tours of Tahiti Nui, the main island. On TripAdvisor she is highly rated with customers praising her knowledge of local history, friendliness and personal touch. Visitors often note that she offers commentary about Tahitian culture, sites and landscapes and includes special touches like local snacks or a stop at her family home for homemade food.
Pointe Vénus
Our first stop was Pointe Vénus, steeped in history and famous for European navigators’ arrivals and its iconic lighthouse.
My kids were most excited about the black sand beach lined with coconut trees. The storm turned out to be a blessing because Marie-Jeanne said the beach and other sites would normally be packed.
Les Trois Cascades
Next, we visited Les Trois Cascades, three spectacular waterfalls nestled in lush greenery.
Lunch at a Local Home
We then drove to Marie-Jeanne’s family’s house, perched on the ocean about an hour from Papeete. Her mother and stepfather prepare homemade lunches for full-day excursion clients. I expected challenges since my kids are finicky eaters, but her mother was welcoming and loving, serving local dishes that my kids absolutely loved. They ate so much, even trying foods they had never seen before. As a parting gift, her mother, who only speaks French and Tahitian, gave my kids special shells she’d had since she was young. We were all touched by her generosity.
Grocery Store
A planned stop at Faaone Waterfall was rained out, so we went to a massive supermarket instead. I was surprised they had everything we could need, though it wasn’t cheap, not surprising for an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Black Friday sales were in full swing, since we visited in late November.
Église de Saint-Jean Baptiste
On the way to our next stop, we detoured to Église de Saint-Jean Baptiste, founded in 1857 under Catholic missionary Father Armand Chausson. One of the earliest coral-stone churches in French Polynesia, it reflects both the spread of Catholic missions and local building traditions.
The Water Garden
Our next stop was the Water Garden of Vaipahi (Jardins d’eau de Vaipahi), a serene botanical and cultural oasis on Tahiti’s southwest coast in Mataiea. Shaded paths wind past ponds, streams and waterfalls surrounded by lush tropical plants. Opened in 2007, the free garden blends natural beauty with Polynesian legend, marking it as a place of spiritual significance once believed to be a passage for souls.
Grotte Vaipoiri (aka The Cave)
We finished at Grotte Vaipoiri, a cool and mysterious cave formed over time by water and rock. The tourism board says you can bathe in the water, but signs prohibited swimming so we listened, though I saw some locals approaching with towels as we were leaving.
Marae de Mataiea
One stop we didn’t make was Marae de Mataiea, an ancient Polynesian ceremonial stone site where Ma’ohi communities once held religious rituals, offerings and social gatherings. Like other marae across the island, it features stone platforms imbued with mana, linking the living with ancestors and gods. Today, marae are cultural and archaeological treasures offering a glimpse into Tahiti’s rich pre-European history while serving as sites of respect and reflection.
It’s unfortunate we had so much rain during our time there but rainy season is November to April, so it wasn’t entirely unexpected. On a sunny day, everything would have looked different but regardless, it was beautiful. And experiencing a local lunch at Marie-Jeanne’s family home was truly unforgettable. In fact, it was so memorable that I suggested they offer it as part of a food tour.
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