Thank you to St. Kitts for inviting me to explore the island so I could write this detailed narrative of my experiences.
There was once a volcanic island that so enchanted Christopher Columbus, he titled it after his namesake patron saint, St. Christopher. Only later did locals shorten the name from St. Christopher’s to St. Kitts.
England’s first settlement in the Caribbean, St. Kitts was once the wealthiest sugar colony on earth. Forests make up around 36% of the 18×5-mile island, aligned east to west, where low eastern mountains on the dry part of the island face the Atlantic and the western mountainous side faces the Caribbean, receiving 60 inches of rain or more a year. Sixty-five thousand people share the land between St. Kitts and neighboring Nevis, just two nautical miles away.
U.S. travelers can fly with American Airlines from Charlotte (CLT), New York (JFK), and Miami (MIA); Delta from Atlanta (ATL) and JFK; JetBlue from JFK; and United Airlines from Newark (EWR). St. Kitts can be easily reached from the UK via twice-weekly flights from London Gatwick with British Airways. KayanJet offers an exclusive lounge experience for visitors arriving into and departing St. Kitts from US$180 per person, each way.
Deep in the rainforest, under the expert guidance of O’Neil Mulraine, a native islander intimately familiar with Mount Liamuiga, our small group is hiking to the lip of an extinct volcanic crater 3,792 feet high. On this 4.5-to-6-hour trek in the center of the island, I realize that without O’Neil, we would miss all the secrets of the rainforest, as he stops along the way to share in-depth knowledge of the moist green forest surroundings, where little light penetrates. “Right here is where 35% of nature’s medicine is found in the only expanding forest.”
A black-faced monkey with a tail longer than my arm scurries between the treetops. These African green monkeys, known as vervets, arrived to the Caribbean Island of St. Kitts a long time ago, presumably as pets, and their population exploded.
Warbling Red Mountain birdsong drifts through the dense forest. O’Neil stops to sharpen our awareness, as we look in awe of a 95-year-old tree with a twisted trunk that spans out like a wavy ribbon. Using his walking stick to bang the ribbon bark surface, he makes a deep rhythmic tune similar to a steel brass band but sounding more like a wooden boat. A few feet away, he touches the Mimosa “feely” plant, causing the leaves to cascade inward, then introduces us to sap from a gum tree that smells like Vicks Vaporub, a natural island cure for throat ailments. He plucks a fern leaf instructing us to press it on our skin, leaving a white tattoo imprint, then our “tribesman” of the forest digs up malicanda root for us to smell, as he instructs that men should drink this root as tea before a date because “It is good for the journey, Mon.” Rainforest Viagra, that is.
Unlike other tropical rainforests I’ve traversed, this one comes with no fear of snakes, as the mongoose that were introduced to the island rid the land of rodents and in turn, have effectively eliminated almost all snakes. However, monkeys are plentiful and the locals claim they eat just about everything, posing a challenge to local farmers. O’Neil delights us with his own stories of eating “tree mutton” or monkey meat once, as this local delicacy often tenderized with papaya is not served at restaurants.
We scramble over miles of rocks, clinging to muddy roots and holding on to trees to stabilize ourselves, but none of us expected this roundtrip hike to be quite so treacherous. The monsoon rains shower us as soon as we arrive to the top, feeling like the earth’s blessing. One at a time on a tiny cliffside space, we peer down into the lush green cauldron, where locals apparently slide down with a rope, to swim in the sulphuric seasonal waters. I was hoping to see the ocean from this bird’s eye perspective, but no such luck.
The rains never let up for hours on our return climb down, turning our adventure into a mud bog slip-n-slide nightmare, making it extremely difficult to maintain balance and not impale oneself on a tree or rock. We crawl like crabs – low, hanging on to the forest branches and staircases of roots to avoid slipping. Even our fearless leader, who has been taking guests on this hike for decades, seems to not remember a downpour as merciless. It makes me wonder what the rainy hurricane season is like from the end of June to October. Exhausted, weary, and covered in mud, we return barely able to walk, yet feeling accomplished and thankful for the St. Kitts initiation.
Choose your own adventure and get to know this exciting tropical island.
10 Ways to Explore St. Kitts
Hike through the rainforest to the rim of a volcano
For adventure travelers, nature lovers or those craving the challenge of an aggressive rainforest hike, climb up Mount Liamuiga with a guide like O’Neil Mulraine from O’Neill Rainforest Tours. It will be thoroughly unforgettable. Find him celebrated in the latest Lonely Planet Guide.
Indulge in a spa treatment
At the newly renovated St. Kitts Marriott Resort Spa , splurge on a Body Wrap Treatment, for the best solution to combat sun exposure. Soothing cooling creams are applied before being wrapped in what feels like a human tinfoil burrito, ending with a final rub down of coconut milk cream, hydrating and relieving overexposed sunburned skin.
At Belle Mont Sanctuary Resort Spa, located right at the bottom of the Mount Liamuiga hike, find Petula, a massage goddess who will expertly release your post-hike muscle tension. The tranquil location sits atop a hill with scenic pool and dramatic view of nearby islands Saba and “Statia.” Lolygag in a plush robe, hydrating with ginger lemongrass water, a sure cure to help anyone settle into a state of Zen.
The new 5-star Park Hyatt St. Kitts Christophe Harbour is the grand dame of the island, boasting Sugar Mill Spa and Sanctuary, a full-service tropical oasis featuring spa treatments infused with the healing power of the Caribbean’s flora and fauna. Some say this new property is nicer than the Four Seasons Nevis.
Bike the island with a guide
Rent a bike for the day, and for $25, cruise the island and admire the flora and fauna and mongoose and monkeys. A guide, like local Troy B.P. Hendrickson with Journey Mastrs Tour Shoppe (@caribbeanjourneymastrs), will educate you about the island along the way. Decide if you want to cruise straight to the ocean along the golf course paths and admire the colorful hillside homes, or tour the hills of the Southeast Peninsula towards Caribelle Batik, or the historic Brimstone Hill neighborhood. Finalize your jaunt back at Vibes Beach Bar and Grill with a favorite local cocktail, Ting with a Sting (rum mixed with Ting grapefruit soda).
Sail a Hobie Cat
A few feet down the beach from Vibes Beach Bar and Grill, select a Hobie Cat to take for an ocean swirl, after getting a sailing lesson with Nick from Beach Addiction. Hop aboard solo or with a friend or two, plus the amazing instructor who can sail alongside, and cruise to nearby Nevis Island. Dolphins and turtles most likely are included.
Get high with a Parasail
Next to Reggae Beach Bar on the South East Peninsula, hop aboard a boat with St. Kitts Water Sports that fits 12, to get 600 feet in the sky. Fly like a bird with a partner to witness the island in a new perspective. Afterward, cheers to your success with a dip in the crystal-clear aquamarine ocean and a Mud Slide, Reggae Rum Punch, or B.B.C (Baileys, Banana, Coconut, +rum) on the beach at Reggae Beach Bar.
Zipline with Sky Safari
This 2-hour tour – with 5 lines, over 250 feet above the valley floor, and under the rainforest canopy – is safely engineered with catch-block mechanical breaks and a spring-back breaking system. Located in the Wingfield Estate, a former sugar plantation, the hands-free zipline includes a final ride that is double the fun – with a zipline race against a friend. Book at Sky Safari St. Kitts.
Explore the land on an ATV
An ATV ride with “Manners” through the winding sugarcane paths is one I won’t forget. Since I was reluctant to hop on solo due to a previous ATV accident 7 years ago in Utah, my guide, “Manners”, let me take a backseat as I held on and admired the scenery.
We cruised by colorful local shanty homes, hibiscus flowers, tropical fruit (mango, bananas, papaya), and tall grasses. Starting from the historic Wingfield Estate, we passed monkeys, cows, puppies, and even a piglet with the majestic mountain range, 18th century stone Brimstone Hill fortress, and the ocean in the distance. His personal narrative of the scenery ensured I didn’t miss any detail of the centuries-old sugar estate ruins. “It smells so good!” I mused near the tall grasses, learning this smell of molasses was due to recent grass burnings from former sugarcane plantings. Get up close with the land with a Spectrum ATV Adventure.
Taste Old Road Rum at the original sugar mill ruins circa 1655
Rum first flowed from the Old Road Distillery in 1681, making it the oldest surviving rum distillery in the Caribbean, dated by the records of Christopher Jefferson, the owner at that time and ancestor of America’s third president, Thomas Jefferson. Old Road Rum Company exists today to bring rum production back to the island of St. Kitts, with a goal to also produce sugarcane locally again. In 2012, an excavation rediscovered the original 17th century mill and masonry along the river bank, and the ongoing archeological dig is sure to reveal much more.
A Historical Rum Tour and Tasting consists of a welcome cocktail, property tour of the 300-year-old sugar factory (where they once ground the cane by water wheel and used steam power to convert sugar cane juice into cane sugar and molasses) and rum distillery in the forested surroundings of the Wingfield Estate. Admire the aqueduct built in the mid 1800s, a 30-foot diameter water wheel, lime kiln, cotton plants, stone fuel supply shaft, blacksmith area, and boiling house’s large copper stills.
Old Road Rum is tropically aged for 12 years in American Oak Bourbon casks and is presented as a pure expression of rum – craft distilled with no sugars, colors, or flavors added during the production process. Blended and hand bottled on the site of the Old Road Distillery, founder Jack Widdowson, a proud Kittitian, is committed to re-igniting small batch rum production on the island he loves.
After you learn the process of rum making, sip small batch releases along with a post tour cocktail. This exquisite spirit with nuances of caramel and molasses should be sipped and appreciated as it develops into complex tones of roasted almonds, butterscotch, and cinnamon.
Find Old Road Rum bottled with cocktails for the mini bars at Four Seasons Nevis. Buy a bottle of this exceptional rum on site to check in your bag, as only mini bottles could be found at that airport.
Witness the batik process at Caribelle Batik at Romney Manor
Learn the intricate steps and techniques used to bring this art form to life. Take home a unique handmade batik piece, fully washable sarongs, wall hangings, and more, at historical Romney Manor, a haven with roots tracing back to the 1600s, when Sam Jefferson II (the great, great, great grandfather of Thomas Jefferson) built part of the property set in six acres of lush botanical gardens. A massive, 400-year-old saman tree dominates the area and a Rainforest Bar serves Jefferson’s Rum Punch in this relaxing setting.
Dive into local cuisine
Dining on St. Kitts is a casual yet memorable affair. For an unforgettable dinner, order the extraordinarily large split Lobster Thermidor from Rock Lobster, with a creamy sauce so flavorful you want to drink it or soak it with bread. The tender lobster arrives with a side of festive rice. Compliment your meal with the TripAdvisor – made with banana, pineapple, and coconut rum, with orange and pineapple juice and a splash of passionfruit, topped with small bottle floaters and sparklers.
Rustic beachside Shipwreck is not to be missed for conch fritters, jerk chicken, plantain, Mahi, and their famous spiced rum drinks. The monkeys and mongoose adjacent to the public beach are also part of the fun, as they can be observed eating plantain and fruits thanks to a regular who shares the scraps. Try the local favorite Vitamalt, a malt drink produced by Carib Brewery that reminds me of a molasses cola.
For a more refined dining experience, a farm-to-table lunch at Belle Mont Sanctuary Kitchen includes a fresh catch of the day, local produce, and elegantly presented Kittitian bites.
Beachside Spice Mill, known for their hibiscus rum, is another must for sunset dinner, where diners should sample johnnycake balls with garlic butter, coconut milk seafood bisque, jerk pork, grilled fish, or baked whole spiny lobster with hibiscus rum cocktails.
Marriott’s FIRE Steak and Seafood Restaurant is surprisingly impressive, with perfectly prepared filet mignon au poivre and a fantastic wine selection.
At Carambola Beach Club’s hacienda style restaurant, order sushi made with local ingredients or indulge in lobster stuffed with crab meat along with pasta, salad, fresh fish, and more.
Downtown, cozy up with the locals at Boozy’s on the Town for “goat water”, the natives’ favorite soup, rich and hearty like a beef stew, served in a massive bowl loaded with goat meat. Just be mindful of the bones. Try other island specialties such as salt fish, chicken soup with pig tails, conch soup, and coconut dumplings. Find sister location, Boozy’s on the Beach, where the beloved brand is adored by tourists and locals.
