Upon landing on Greece’s largest island, it becomes immediately clear that Crete is the birthplace of olive farming. The drive in any direction consists of miles and miles of ancient olive groves. While squeezing through one lane villages and spiraling up and down rugged mountainous terrain, it’s easy to appreciate how high-quality olive oil, known locally as liquid gold, is Crete’s best export. Greece’s southern outpost has some of the world’s most fertile and productive regions, and after recently spending a week on this remarkable island, I realized that it wasn’t nearly enough time to explore it all. Thank you to the Phāea hospitality group for hosting me, so that I could write about my experience at two of their properties.
Phāea Blue, a timeless luxury escape
Hanging above the ocean and nestled into the land, find serenity at Phāea Blue’s newly renovated compound of 47 suites, bungalows, and exclusive villa – with expansive terraces, luxe verandas, and private heated pools. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the hotel aims to provide a deep connection to authentic Crete heritage. Stepping into the lobby is like entering a private estate – with the pristine living room oozing a sexy simplicity of fresh flowers, modernist furniture, thoughtfully curated art, and beautiful ceramics. Due to Phāea Blue’s partnership with Benaki Museum, thousands of years of Greek history and artistry can be viewed in the main lobby, along with inspiration from Greek fashion and jewelry designers.
Under the vibrant stars and full moon, settle in on the terrace at Anthós restaurant, to indulge in what was my favorite dinner in Crete. The true flavors of the island come alive, as chefs use carefully selected organic seasonal ingredients, with most sources local to the area and many purveyors proudly displayed on the menu. The Phāea group produces their own honey and Extra Virgin Olive Oil, which are used exclusively at their hotels and restaurants.
Known for a fresh take on Greek contemporary cuisine, Anthós offers an elevated dining experience with outstanding service, in a tasteful dining room or on a sheltered outdoor patio. Most dishes are served in the traditional shared style and portions are generous. Start with something light – like the bulgur salad mixed with diced avocado, cucumber, tomato, and onion topped with prawns – a dish so fresh and flavorful it feels like it could be a star entrée. It pairs well with local dry white Assyrtiko from Terra Nera, a variety native to Greece.
Save space for the restaurant’s “Celebratory Dish”, the Greek lamb shoulder cooked in open wood fire, and watch in awe as it is deboned tableside. You might chuckle at the enormity of the portion – as this scrumptious, succulent, and juicy lamb could easily be enough for four. Greek Syrah perfectly complements the gluttonous and extremely satisfying lamb dish. Add a side of health – like grilled eggplant topped with crunchy kale plated with bed of tahini doused in a pool of olive oil.
In the morning, warm winds welcome the day, with a dazzling unspoiled view of the Aegean, hugged by mountains with Spinalonga Island in the distance, a former leper colony until 1957. The rugged hillside terrain and surrounding foliage are reminiscent of coastal Southern California. Below the property, a rocky private beach beckons guests to soak up the sparkling azure ocean on a lounge chair with umbrellas, or dip into the warm waters off a private dock.
Just walking around the lush garden feels ceremonial, as the subtle scents of wild herbs and flowers intermingle with the salt air. The view alone at this Greek Shangri-La may have you wondering how you can be in this mystical birthplace of Zeus and live like Dionysus, Aphrodite, Apollo or Artemis. The enormous suite adds to the tranquility – donned in white with blue accents and curated Greek art, plenty of closet space, a communal living room, two bathrooms, and grand marble bath with walk-in shower for two. But the massive outdoor pool terrace is the real star and creates the feeling of a private retreat.
When not relaxing poolside as the golden light shifts from sunrise to sunset, walk into the nearby village of Plaka to explore local shops, or take a cooking class at Blue Door, Phaea’s beachside taverna with more stunning views of Spinalonga Island. In the restored fisherman’s beachfront stone house, learn how to make traditional recipes – like a proper Greek salad with fresh oregano, stuffed and folded dolmas, shrimp saganaki with fiery ouzo, and Dakos soaked in tomato water. The aesthetic is pure coastal Greece, and dinner at Blue Door is the ultimate summer fantasy, as the low key taverna spoils with an array of fresh seafood like lobster pasta, shrimps saganaki in tomato and feta cheese, and wild caught fish of the day in lemon olive oil dressing.
Fresh new flavors at breakfast, with an emphasis on Cretan traditions, are inspiration enough to get up in the morning. Anthos’s terrace provides an extravagant affair of buffet options, tantalizing food lovers who want to try all the local specialties. Guests can choose made-to-order selections like eggs with mint, feta, or roasted tomatoes; or graze and sample an illustrious array of options like local cheeses, Greek Bougatsa, spinach pie, traditional tsoureki, an assortment of cakes like carob, and Greek yogurt with various nuts, dried fruit, and honeys.
From Phaea Blue’s shoreline, let the Aegean become yours for the day as you set sail on a traditional wooden caique fishing boat (turned luxe tourer). Journey around Spinalonga Island and the coastline of Elounda, crossing the blue waters to swim, dive, and float in a sapphire crystal-clear bay. Cretan wines are poured and a lunch spread is prepared aboard, teeming with artisanal cheeses, fresh salads and dips. Quench your thirst for adventure and explore other watersport activities like snorkeling/diving, kayaking, SUPs, wakeboarding and waterskiing – offered at the seaside activity office.
At Phaea Blue, time slows and the vibe feels like you have truly become one with the rhythm of the land and sea.
Phaea Cretan Malia, a stylish family getaway
On Crete’s northern shore, the Aegean meets overflowing mature gardens at Phāea Cretan Malia, an effortlessly stylish hotel that successfully caters not only to adults who appreciate a modern and tasteful aesthetic, but also accommodates like-minded families with children of all ages, as this hotel speaks to a child’s heart. At night, witness well-behaved children in adorable outfits – from places like England, France, and Scandinavia – dine with their fashionable parents.
The design vibe of the hotel is reminiscent of something you might see in SoCal or Miami, and every style choice is executed to excite the eye – creating attractive spaces to mingle on mod bespoke furniture – with fun colors, an overflow of books, potted foliage and even ceramics floating on an open shelving near the beach. The seaside suites balance modern elegance with Crete’s earthy tones, terracotta hues, botanical murals, and sea blues, plus floor-to-ceiling windows that let the light in, and details like locally crafted custom furniture that make the stay feel special.
Rejuvenate seaside, with cocktails crafted at the Beach Shack Bar, or settle in with fun pool toys and areas to explore. Parents can take a breather, with a Kids Club full of activities (jewelry making, cooking sessions, arts and crafts lab), or appease little ones at the ice cream bar, movie nights, or Cat Café Project, a dedicated space to feed the feline residents. Complimentary SUPs, a round of tennis, or a workout at the outdoor gym in lush gardens, are all perks of a stay at Phaea Cretan Malia.
As the Cicadas buzz and plumeria fills the air, watch a delicious sunset on the beach before dining seaside at the resort’s open-air Italian restaurant, Almyra, on hand-rolled gnocchi and wood-fired pizza from the outdoor stone oven. Nosh poolside over surprisingly phenomenal Levantine-inspired plates at on-site MEZZE restaurant, like watermelon salad drizzled in a spicy balsamic and Lamb Kebab and Rib Eye Kebab with 7 spices, tomato sauce, and red onion on pita paired with exceptional Cretan wines.
The breakfast spread at Mouries’ charming courtyard, stuffed with mulberry trees and stone pots, offers a generous rollout of local dishes, as the restaurant honors Cretan traditions with recipes crafted with seasonal vegetables from the hotel’s garden, wild herbs, and sustainably-sourced meats and seafood. Starting with a breakfast mezze, guests are exposed to a plethora of local, thoughtfully-sourced ingredients and Cretan breakfast favorites specialties, while Greek coffee is brewed in nearby Hovoli.
Dinner at Mouries continues over an open flame, with an array of mezze and lamb fit for a Greek god. Here, they also offer an educational wine pairing, with the island’s fruits and cheeses, making a satisfying afternoon sipping the indigenous grape varieties (Plyto, Dafni, Vilana, Mandilari and Kotsifali) that are not sold in the US.
The hotel really grew on us (as a childless couple) – with a serene ocean-facing room, on a grassy lawn steps from a quiet beach, with calm bath-like waters so clear you could see your feet. An early morning yoga class with breathwork revitalized my weary travel body with the slow gentle waves lapping nearby. Although the resort was in full swing and seemed fully booked the last week of August, it never felt crowded or understaffed.
Fresh, simple ingredients – that are healthy, comforting, and extraordinarily delicious – seem to be the mantra of Crete. Phaea Cretan Malia continues this tradition, as the summer resort you’ll want to return to, again and again.
