Thank you to Visit Salt Lake for sponsoring my trip so that I could write about my experience.
You’ve heard of ski-in, ski-out. But ski-by-horse? That’s a different story.
A horse explodes off the starting line, hooves digging into packed snow. The rider leans forward, reins tight. Their teammate, a skier, crouches low, gripping a tow rope, carving through a snowy city street like it’s a downhill race, except they’re being pulled forward by 1,200 pounds of muscle.
Mid-course, the skier hits a jump. For a second or two they are airborne – spread eagle or flipping backwards, hopefully landing smoothly. The crowd roars. Cowbells ring. Someone yells, “Yeehaw!” This is not a polished Olympic venue.
It’s louder. Closer. Colder. More fun. I can’t help saying aloud, “This is America!”
The intense winter sport of Skijoring (from the Norwegian word skikjøring, meaning “ski driving”) dates back hundreds of years in Scandinavia, where a skier holding onto a rope is pulled at high speed by a galloping horse, racing down a snow-packed course, swishing back and forth, gaining momentum, navigating obstacles and launching off jumps.
The exciting sport has been fully adopted into Utah cowboy country. In Salt Lake City, a sea of cowboy hats, donned by young and old, line the main street “racecourse” to cheer on this distinctly Western tradition – part rodeo, part ski race, part frontier time warp. Skijoring has proven to be a popular local competitive sport since 2017. But this year, it is close to 60 degrees and snow is brought into the city via truckloads from the nearby parking lots of Cottonwood Canyon ski resorts.
Original skikjøring was practical – a way for people to travel long distances over snow by being pulled behind reindeer, horses, or dogs. It wasn’t flashy, it was survival. Long after becoming a sport in Scandanavia, it migrated to North America in the early 1900s, showing up at winter carnivals and even appearing as a demonstration event in the 1928 Winter Olympics in St. Moritz (with horses).
Over time, the sport split into two styles: Nordic skijoring (typically with dogs, still popular today); and Equestrian skijoring – the cowboy-powered version that took root in the American West. What began as a novelty in the mid-20th century – at winter festivals across Montana, Colorado, Wyoming and Utah – has evolved into a serious competitive sport with prize money, timing systems and dedicated teams of riders and skiers.
The Salt Lake City Winter Roundup
Famous for its world-class mountain resorts and Olympic legacy, Salt Lake City is host to an annual urban Winter Roundup weekend, a full-blown community experience in February, combining skijoring, rodeo, arts and entertainment programming, live performances, dancing, local food, a VIP experience, and family-friendly activities. Stop to pet little ponies of various breeds, witness expert lasso spinning, and admire elegant fur-clad ladies race down the runway street on their horses. Watch in awe as pro skiers and snowboarders bounce high on trampolines, flipping and moving in unison.
As skijorers zoom down a snowy street, their bodies arch and twist in back-breaking ways, like dare devils sailing through the air. Some land smoothly while others crash on their sides or face. Skis sheer in half, goggles fly, and at least one guy may have broken an arm.
The crowd’s applause determines which brave skier or snowboarder deserves to win the prize – Delta airline tickets. You’re sure to meet several brave skijorers on the street, who may seem unphased by the kamikaze style stunts. Perhaps a sign of youth? One thing’s certain – it’s a sign of a good time!
Stay central
Be in the middle of the action at brand new, modern Hyatt Regency Salt Lake City, in the heart of downtown and walking distance to Winter Roundup, restaurants, bars, and shopping. Book a King Suite with separate living room, tasteful home-like décor, and floor-to-ceiling windows of the surrounding city and snowcapped Wasatch Mountains.
Boutique hotel lovers will want to check into the Asher Adams Hotel, located in a former 1908 Union Pacific Depot train station with a stunning vaulted lobby ceiling, original murals, real terrazzo floor, and restored stained glass windows.
Escape to the mountains
Just about a 30 minute drive outside the city, Solitude Mountain, located in Cottonwood Canyon, feels worlds away from city life. Take a day trip or stay at The Inn at Solitude, where a few feet away, you’ll be floating up a mountain lift to cruise your first powdery run. Book a refresher lesson with ski instructor Emery Hart.
Later in the day, snowshoe through a moonlit forest to a yurt for a multicourse intimate dinner with new friends. Make a reservation in advance. Headlamps and snowshoes included.
Explore Salt Lake City
The best way to get to know a city is to walk. Grab a loaded roast beef or turkey focaccia sandwich at Central 9th Market, with a Utah Craft Taproot soda like Strawberry Fields. Or duck into bustling Eva’s Bakery, a French cafe for quiche and Cookie Butter Latte.
It’s easy to cruise the wide streets, stopping to stare at the numerous buildings with architectural details that rival New York City. Here, Gothic spires are abundant, turn-of-the-century and midcentury gems abound, and Art Deco beauties and Victorian homes impress – with ornate woodwork and pioneer brickwork found in the older neighborhoods.
Art lovers will want to explore The Utah Museum of Contemporary Art, addressing poignant provocative themes of the day, reflected in the art of the moment. Dreamscapes takes visitors through a labyrinth of wildly concocted art worlds made with upcycled materials.
The acoustically legendary Tabernacle, with its sweeping dome roof, is worth a visit. The church sanctuary, built by early Mormon pioneers, boasts clear amplification to all 3000 seats from the pulpit. The Tabernacle Choir’s weekly program is broadcast live almost every Sunday morning. Since 2019, the six-spire granite landmark Salt Lake Temple has been under construction. For a limited time in 2027, following the renovations, the temple will open for 6 months (April to October) to the public before being blessed and access-restricted to Mormons.
Salt Lake City has its very own ballet, opera and symphony. Other urban attractions include Clark Planetarium, Red Butte Garden, FamilySearch Center, Tattoo Museum, and Utah Museum of Fine Arts.
Dine Downtown
In July 2026, the Michelin Guide will come to Salt Lake City. One contender, Repeal, Salt Lake City’s newest Prohibition speakeasy bar/restaurant, should be on your list – for an evening of live jazz, wildly creative cocktails, and unique culinary delights. Rare bourbons and a whiskey selection are offered in abundance. Sip a Mescal infusion or a unique flavored Espresso Martini with house-made mole or sherry. A plethora of bites – from Venison Carpaccio to Baked Hummus topped with crispy ants – are meant to be shared. However, entrees – like Chicken Leg Confit, Osso Bucco, and homemade pasta similar to a beef bourguignon with dry-cured seared mushrooms – you might just want to keep to yourself.
For fresh sushi, dine at Sapa, with a courtyard and 100-year-old teahouse. Indulge in fresh sashimi Mussel Shooters and loaded sushi rolls from their Secret Menu.
Find a young festive atmosphere at The Powder Room at Varley, where the rotating theme bar transforms into a high energy apres party. In February, the apres ski pop-up is like a makeshift alpine lodge, with apres ski inspired cocktails such as The Bunny Hill or Ski Boots in the Champagne Room. The city has a youthful amount of rowdy Western charm.
