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After surviving two major fires in Malibu, one month apart, my smoke-damaged lungs and broken heart were in need of major repair. The grief and lack of sleep were breaking me down. Never had I spiraled into such a state of sadness and depression since 9/11, when I was living in Washington, DC. Our Malibu bungalow in the burn zone was standing but unliveable. After hotel-hopping for two weeks, my spirits felt defeated. Costa Rica was the ‘pura vida’ we needed, to get away and detach from life’s chaos. The warm fresh air felt intoxicating, like I should drink it in. I finally felt safe.
Direct flights from LAX to Costa Rica’s northern Liberia International Airport made arriving easier than ever, as surprisingly, it is more convenient to fly to Costa Rica from Los Angeles than to my home state of Connecticut.
Costa Rica boasts six different kinds of rain forests and thousands of microclimates, making it an ideal place to rejuvenate and restore one’s health. Over 100 different species of trees can be found in this Central American country, as well as an exciting array of wildlife – including sloths, monkeys and thousands of bird species.
Upon arrival, rejoice in the fresh air – inhale deeply and exhale slowly, on repeat. Costa Rica is the best place to center your consciousness, distract from everyday concerns and lose yourself in ‘pura vida’, a common Costa Rican phrase expressing gratitude and appreciation for the simple things in life.
Rio Perdido Hotel & Thermal River
First, a wellness adventure at the Rio Perdido Hotel & Thermal River in Guanacaste. Located in a dry tropical dwarf forest in Guanacaste, known for its deciduous trees and drought tolerant vegetation, the highlight of Rio Perdido’s wooded environment is the thermal river that runs through the 38-bungalow property. The one-kilometer river consists of temperatures that gradually decline from their source at 120 degrees, with small waterfalls and numerous ponds to soak or swim. Volcanic mud treatment stations offer natural exfoliation for face and body at different points in the river.
After arriving to a modern Bungalow situated in one of the forest ‘neighborhoods’, spiral through the woods on an elevated, lit pathway, to be taken by the therapeutic sound of the river and greeted by colorful insects as big as your hand.
Rooms are designed to support deep sleep, and it’s easy to get aligned with your circadian rhythm in this tranquil setting. Early morning, awake to the sound of pouring rain bouncing from the trees, which feels soothing like a blessing from the gods. On your elevated terrace with swinging hammock, relax in the filtered afternoon sun or admire the night stars through the lush forest before catching some Zzzz’s.
There is no need to leave this restorative property, as active and educational opportunities abound – mountain biking, white water tubing, birdwatching hikes, zip-lining, barista and cocktail classes and changing custom tailored activities. It may be time to face your fear of heights with a Canyon Adventure consisting of eight zip lines, a Tarzan rope swing dangling over a river, and sheer rock climbing, an adrenaline pumping adventure not for the faint of heart. Empowered and strong, with the guidance of an expert team to keep you safe from one tree to another on carbon fiber cables, you’ll conquer the course with satisfaction and gratitude.
After a day of adventure, you’ll be fully ready to settle into a restorative yoga session on a cliffside pod, to ease the body and calm the mind. Right outside the wellbeing sanctuary, several naturally-fed modern thermal pools beckon – with poolside drink service and abundant wildlife making appearances. Watch howler monkeys and capuchin monkeys flit from tree to tree, eating the flowers, along with a water-walking lizard and a host of unique insects. Recuperating in and out of the hot springs helps to feel refreshed.
Foodies will delight in sampling Rio Perdido’s locally inspired and sourced gastronomy, served in an open-air restaurant overlooking the treetops of the forest and thermal gorge. Complimentary breakfast options include fresh local fruits and yogurt, plantain with local cheeses, and my personal favorite – Breakfast Salad – made with lettuce from their garden, roasted sweet potatoes, eggs, bacon, mixed seeds, and tomatoes. Dive into Costa Rican dishes like Caribbean ceviche with plantain chips, roasted wild mushrooms, or green plantain patacon pancetta, a traditional dish made with slow cooked pork belly, refried beans, and avocado emulsion. A local favorite is Costa Rican rice pudding with raisins.
Various guided hikes are offered, where guests can witness the endless variety of exotic flora and fauna throughout 32 kilometers of hiking trails. Hike to view three volcanoes in the distance, passing colorful birds, white nosed coatis, and other creatures you might have missed if it wasn’t for the expert guides sharing the hidden spots.
A garden tour educates about the produce grown for the restaurant and the ingenuity used to plant and harvest herbs and plants, because surprisingly, they don’t get a lot of rain here. More than 600 species of bees call this place home, and parcels of land are used to measure oxygen and the carbon footprint. After the garden tour – through hibiscus, eggplant, tomatoes, lemongrass, and more varietals – enjoy several herbal teas from the garden delights, with different kinds of local honey and natural sweeteners infused with cinnamon.
Wellness Adventure is definitely a way of life at Rio Perdido.
Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa
The second stop on my ‘pura vida’ journey took me to Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa in La Fortuna. Located in a wet tropical, lush rainforest of vibrant green hues everywhere you turn, guests enjoy VIP access to Tabacon’s raging hot springs from the famous naturally-flowing thermal river and the private, adults-only Shangri-La Gardens, a favorite soaking area for the hottest hydrotherapy. Daybeds with drink service allow hotel guests to lounge an afternoon away on the 900-acres of private reserve land, where wildlife are part of the surroundings. The constant pulse of the cascading water eases any worries away, while some waterfalls feature nooks to sit behind the falls, let the water flow around your body, or beat on your back like a massage.
It doesn’t always rain in the rainforest, as sunlight beams make the foliage glow throughout the day. At night, the whole resort takes on an entirely different mood, as the illuminated hot springs are opened exclusively for hotel guests’ after-hours soaking. Explore the many river pools with temperatures ranging from 72 to 104 degrees, naturally heated by the volcano and slowly mineralized underground.
Book a rainforest room with a view of Arenal Volcano, and as you stroll around the property, admire the native plants and colorful exotic foliage – monstera, orchids, awapuhi, ferns, bromeliads, passion flowers, red heliconia and fan palms.
The resort’s popular on-site restaurants are led by Costa Rican Chef Saul Umana, featuring menu items such as Caribbean meatballs, fried ceviche, roasted eggplant, and the catch of the day. Try the fresh octopus, lobster risotto, or casado, the traditional Costa Rican plate of rice and beans, plantain, salad, tortillas, and choice of fish, beef, or chicken. Sip Cacique, the national liquor that is a distilled spirit made from sugarcane; try it in a cocktail infused with roasted sweet corn, homemade cocoa bitters, and banana oleo, served with a corn and honey crisp.
Visit a nearby rainforest, to mingle with local wildlife. On the GetYourGuide app, book an informative tour guide like David at the La Fortuna Hikes and Trails nature preserve, to witness many sloths, toucans, and bird species on an old cattle ranch turned rain forest, planted seven years ago, near Arenal Volcano. Be in awe of the breathtaking beauty of the rainforest and be amazed by the unique native animal species.
The rainforest heals. Tabacon is understandably the most popular place in Costa Rice for natural relaxation.
Whichever path you choose, you’re sure to find ‘pura vida’.
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