Thank you to Rusty Parrot Lodge and Spa for hosting my stay so I could provide this detailed review of my experience.
Wyoming’s Jackson Hole valley, home to abundant wildlife and a gateway to Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, is the ultimate destination for those seeking wide open spaces and western charm. Nestled between the Teton and Gros Ventre mountain ranges, Jackson Hole was named after a mountain man named “Davy” Jackson, who trapped in the area in the early 19th century, while “hole” refers to the valley’s topography, with a large depression between mountains that looks like a hole from above.
In this quintessential western town, dressed up in holiday lights, an archway of antlers from the National Elk Refuge frames the Town Square. The Boy Scouts are exclusively allowed to collect them on National Park land, often fetching up to $14/pound at the Elk Fest auction, last year earning around $218,000 for their finds. Most of the money is used to support elk preservation efforts.
While this is home to miles of snowy slopes and diverse mountain terrain, there is much more to a Wyoming winter than skiing and snowboarding. Discover wildlife, try snowshoeing, delight in the town’s restaurants and shops, and unwind in boutique luxury accommodations. Here’s how to experience the magic of wintertime in Jackson Hole.
Enjoy a sleigh ride through the elk refuge
Encounter winter’s magic during a horse-drawn sleigh ride through Jackson’s National Elk Refuge, where wide open snow fields are ringed by skyscraping mountains. Meet the Percheron horses that originate from France, before transporting yourself in the middle of a western adventure to admire local wildlife like bison, foxes, coyotes, eagles, and thousands of elk.
This century-long tradition includes an informative guide to answer all your burning questions and to educate about the largest migrating elk herd in North America. Observing the elk in action feels like being in a scene from HBO’s hit show, Yellowstone.
Fresh grass is the preferred diet of bison and elk, so they often feed at the elk refuge, where less snow covers the ground. Willow trees make a fabulous snack for elk, who like shrubs, tree bark and twigs. Elk begin shedding their antlers in January and sometimes shed only one side at a time. Made of calcium, critters will often eat the antlers. Elk can weigh 300–700 pounds and can jump eight feet. Since wolves attack them, they need to stick together in packs. In mating season, elk put on a show like a wildlife soap opera, vying for dominance to select a mate. In winter, elk keep their insides warm by regurgitating what they eat five to six times as the grasses venture through four stomachs.
Explore Wildlife in Grand Teton National Park
Mornings begin with chilly temperatures (often below zero) in January, but increase by 15-20 degrees during the day. Dress warm, add hand warmers to your mittens, and get ready for an educational wildlife van ride with Jackson Hole Wildlife Safaris. The naturalist guide enhances the experience as they know where to look for wildlife, while sharing detailed knowledge of species along the way, stopping with spotting scopes and UHD binoculars to view species up close.
Witness galloping moose against the glistening white backdrop, as well as big horn sheep, elk, coyotes, grey wolves, and even bison in the distance – all with the jagged peaks of the snow-capped Teton Mountain Range forming a stunning backdrop to the west. Look closely and see signs of wildlife, like claw marks on white aspen trees, a sign of bears marking their territory or attracting mates. Thankfully, the bears hibernate all season. You truly won’t forget this wild west winter wildlife safari!
Snowshoe in Split Creek Ranch
Equipped with snowshoes, crunch through a snowy path to a private ranch with a full-on winter camp, set up for a casual lunch with toasted deli sandwiches and grilled cheese, hot soup or chili, and hot chocolate and cider. Make a S’more by the fire pit in this Instagram-worthy setup and absorb the wintry wonderland setting thanks to Great Western Expeditions.
Relish in cozy luxury at a boutique hotel and spa
Relax après-adventure at family-owned Rusty Parrot Lodge, a new boutique hotel located right in downtown Jackson, rebirthed after a catastrophic fire in 2019 halted their 30-year legacy. About 5 months old, the reimagined property boasts 38 rooms and two suites, with a Body Sage Spa and Wild Sage Restaurant and Bar, plus outdoor hot tub and activities – all fitting seamlessly into the surrounding towering timbers and majestic mountains.
Many thoughtful amenities and personalized touches make for a special stay. Freshly baked cookies with hot cider, tea, and coffee are a welcome treat from a cold blustery day, waiting for guests inside the comfortable library lounge. Each evening, specialty chocolates are delivered at turn down and the attentive in-room service even provides cleaning wipes for your sunglasses. A cowboy western poem and Concierge Newsletter itinerary left in the room each day informs guests of the weather and activities.
The rooms feel like sanctuaries, with large comfy beds, custom designed furniture, fireplaces, and grand modern bathrooms with high-end toiletries, wine-infused hydrating eye masks, and deep soaking tubs. Lavender pillow spritzes are a nice touch, left bedside to aide with sleep. The hotel’s generosity feels like staying at a good friend’s home, as they offer warm heating pads for feet and hands upon leaving for the day’s adventure, and welcome extras like a contact lens case if yours goes missing.
After a day of wintry fun, sipping a handcrafted Mezcal cocktail or glass of French Syrah in the vibrant fireside bar lounge is comforting. You might notice the surrounding art, like a painting of goofy Alfred E Neuman lurking in the corner, gifted by the editor of Mad Magazine, who has stayed at the hotel many times.
The on-site restaurant, Wild Sage, offers an ever-changing menu inspired by the season’s bounty. Executive Chef Hugo Goodwin helms this sophisticated venue, with a menu drawing a packed house, so make a reservation in advance. Start by sampling the homemade focaccia, garlic soup, local mushrooms, beef tartar, and burrata with persimmon. Share the juicy pork chop, stacked like art, or filet mignon diced and sliced with potatoes. The Maple Syrup Latte with a Cinnamon Roll is a decadent start to any morning, but you’ll want to make room for the Cast Iron Omelet or Snake River Ranchero for a filling breakfast experience.
Nourish your spirit and quiet your mind at the hotel’s on-site Body Sage Spa, where an energizing massage – based on a quantum physics quiz – incorporates custom aromatherapy. Select a fresh made-to-order herbal tea while an expert masseuse helps release tension through scent, breathing, and various pressure modalities and techniques. Besides restorative massages, herbal scrubs, and salt soaks, choose from facials (like the Glo2facial) and recovery treatments for post-adventure aches. During ski season, a shuttle whisks guests to nearby Jackson Hole Mountain. This tranquil hotel is just a few steps from town but tucked away on a side street for a feeling of privacy and seclusion.
Dine, shop, and peruse the mountain town of Jackson
Jackson is the central town in Jackson Hole valley. North are the peaks of Grand Teton National Park and vast Yellowstone National Park. But here in this storybook western town, in America’s richest county, peruse art galleries filled with wildlife art and stuffed game. It’s east to confront a real-life bison or a bear looking down at you from a storefront in this land of taxidermy. Stores don carved animal ornaments on antler trees, while custom-designed western hats can be found at high end boutiques all over town.
Meander the charming streets to admire the snow-dusted village, with vintage establishments beautified in twinkly holiday wreathes and garland – like ornate Saddle Rock Family Saloon, with its old-school ticket window, or the retro Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, which has been pouring drinks since 1937. At historic Jackson Drug, an original Soda Fountain started in 1919, sidle up to the 104-year-old bar for an ice cream milkshake, paired with an elk or bovine smash burger sourced from the family’s cattle ranch, Jackson Hole Hereford Ranch. Locals love Nora’s Fish Creek Inn for breakfast, along with other longstanding establishments such as the Blue Lion (since 1976), Snake River Grill, and Glorietta’s Trattoria for Italian.
Wild bison meat can’t be sold; however, farm-raised varieties are found on many menus in town. The meat is leaner than skinless chicken, high in protein, and contains more iron than beef. Try this slightly sweet and earthy meat at the following spots – Bison Carpaccio and Bison Chili at Million Dollar Cowboy Steakhouse, a Bison Burger at Jackson Drug, and Bison Wellington and Bison Short Ribs at modern American steakhouse Local Restaurant & Bar.
Jackson Hole is a unique, down-to-earth destination. Slow down and relish the special moments. And like one man I met in Jackson said, “God bless Wyoming and keep it wild.”
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