Like a dandelion puff, we floated above the Turkish fairytale landscape, famed for its otherworldly setting of fairy chimney rock formations, cave dwellings and ancient underground cities. As the fire burner gusts shot inside the mouth of the balloon to keep us afloat, my lungs breathed in and out in unison to this vital flame heating the air inside. By 5am, we observed numerous colorful balloons below and around us glowing and beating like a heart.
Ours was one of the first balloons to soar above the land as the sun awakened and blazed across the horizon. Our expert pilot steered us in and around the soft tuff rock formations, created by millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion, carved by ancient civilizations into homes, churches and vast subterranean complexes. We watched in awe of the changing early morning light above this otherworldly land of surreal pink and light tan pinnacles, cones, spires and hoodoos, as at least 50 more balloons ascended adding to the dreamy UNESCO World Heritage Site scenery.
Since the 1990s, I dreamt to be part of this famous valley, with pillar-like rock formations, just an hour flight from Istanbul, as I had learned about the cave-dwelling city from friends who visited on Semester at Sea in college. Once a major trade route between the ancient East & West, and home to a dozen different civilizations, the monasteries, churches, Byzantine frescoes, and rock-cut homes from the late 4th– 12th centuries have endured and many have been reimagined with modern conveniences.
Thank you to Argos in Cappadocia for hosting my stay so I could write this detailed account.
Staying at Fairytale Argos in Cappadocia
The high-flying main attraction right from your hotel room
About an hour drive from the airport, we arrived at Argos, located on a windy cobblestone pathway, in a restored former monastery that felt like part of the village. Set amidst the lunar-like landscape, below the Uchisar Castle and overlooking the Pigeon Valley, our suite had direct views of the valley, and multi-level fairy chimneys right outside to explore. The ultimate experience of staying at Argos was being able to arise early, step outside, and watch the hot air balloons ascend, from our private grassy terrace lounge chairs. Here on our own perch, we sipped Turkish tea and gazed at hundreds of balloons soaring into the sky like chocolate chips dancing, with one or two making their way around us in the dreamy setting.
Our suite, with living room and ancient carved-wood burning stone fireplace (that could be lit upon request) was thoughtfully decorated with local pottery, wool rugs and a salvaged painted door used as art, adding to the overall feel of being in a distant land. Windows offered delicious views of the mystical landscape, even from the bathroom. Amenities included turndown service with treats, a Dyson hair dryer, and a thoughtful, sustainable, in-room recycling program, refillable glass water bottles, and QR codes to conserve paper.
Argos features 71 uniquely designed rooms and suites carved into the hillside – including nine ‘mansions’ and a spa, added in 2024, adapted from homes built by wealthy families beginning in the 18th century and abandoned some 100 years ago. A meticulous restoration and preservation project transformed this village-within-a-village, breathing new life into ancient remnants. The hotel’s new cave and 2-bedroom Splendid Suites include private indoor pools, Jacuzzis, or plunge pools within each suite’s mazelike layout. A 2,000-year-old monastery was discovered carved from stone, once a rest stop for camel caravans on the Silk Road. The property sits above terraced vineyards, gardens and valley views. Historical pigeon houses carved into the cliffs can still be observed, as their guano provided valuable fertilizer for vineyards and crops grown in the dry volcanic soil.
Experience Argos fairyland
Make the most of your time in and around Argos. Recover from traveling with a rest or soak in the heated pool, with a cocktail overlooking the entire valley, as the poolscape is an extension of the unique natural ancient landscape, hugged by a rock cliffside.
Hiking in and around the property may be the most surreal experience imaginable, as each turn presents an awe-inspiring and constantly-changing scene. Argos offers easy access to trek through the Pigeon Valley, climb up to the Castle situated above and behind the village, and hike up and down and around steep winding pathways, canyons, deep chasms, cliffsides, and unique rock pillars below the hotel. You’ll see thousands of tiny pigeon caves carved into the cliffsides and in some areas witness people living in the tuft pinnacles. But the shocking thing is that we never saw anyone while hiking, just a morning coyote atop a cliffside rock peering down at us. Hiking here truly feels like being an explorer.
Argos also offers an over-the-top private picnic experience on their infinity terrace, overlooking the valley. A sign greeted us by name, to an enchanting garden area, including a chef-prepared multi-course setup with generous portions of charcuterie, local fruit, strawberry crème tart cake, and wines. Live music was set up just for us, to enhance the ambiance, and continued with a slew of artfully arranged dishes on wooden slabs, such as pizza, corn on the cob, sandwiches and salads.
Subterranean wellness
Argos Spa offers wellness rituals focused on balance, harmony and renewal. Argos boasts the largest underground cave spa in the region, with a 17,000 square foot glowing, turquoise, lit cave pool, steam rooms, sauna, juice bar, and relaxing outdoor terraces to sit with herbal tea and soak in the warm breezes and magical views. My massage included a full body rubdown, finishing with invigorating hair tugs and scalp-scratching, while a locally sourced marble slab at the center of the hammam is perfect for two. A traditional Turkish Bath will stimulate all the senses and take you to a place of ultimate relaxation.
Dining with a view
The high level of gastronomy is a defining element of a stay at Argos. Two restaurants tantalize guests with regional ingredients and traditional recipes, reinterpreted with modern twists that never stray too far from authentic Cappadocian flavors.
Every table at Seki’s gorgeous lounge, dining room, and outdoor terrace – and Nahita’s high level terrace – come with sweeping fantastical views of Guvercinlik Valley and Mount Erciyes. Over 4 days, we twirled through an epicurean affair at Argos, amazed by the freshness, variety, service and chef expertise. Ingredients from their own gardens, like tomatoes, eggplant, grapes, olives, honey, watermelon, artichoke, figs, and more, were the stars of the show and presented themselves in many dishes.
The refined Anatolian flavors excited us at both venues and can be appreciated a la carte or through multi-course curated tasting menus which we enjoyed, one focusing on more traditional items and the other a more modern interpretation of classical favorites. We loved trying newly resurrected flavors and forgotten recipes at Seki. Some dishes arrived in tall clay pots, on a bed of fire, with bread warming atop and roasting vegetables inside. A hot appetizer of stewed tomatoes and eggplant were dished tableside from a hot ceramic pot. Pot Cheese rolled in thin paper-like wrap, shrimp sizzling in a butter garlic skillet, hummus topped with pastrami, lamb chops marinated with wild thyme, and an artichoke confit were some of our favorites. Cocktails are also concocted with a local touch, as one can order a Carob Negroni, a Beet Margarita or Rosemary and Thyme Gin and Tonic.
Traditional Turkish comfort food, Yaglama, was delicious. The thinly-layered, handmade lasagna includes a savory minced meat and vegetable sauce. Desserts tantalized, with a smorgasbord of bites, like molasses sorbet with grapes, Turkish custard pudding topped with nuts, Turkish halva, dried molasses with nuts, and baklava drizzled with grape molasses.
At breakfast, we were greeted by name. Here, at Nahita, a mindboggling array of new ingredients and specialty bites awaits, providing guests with the opportunity to taste the local cuisine and hotel’s produce, grown on the land. A dizzying array of choices include Turkish bagels, puffed pita bread, Tahini boger, specialty pastries, local cheeses, fresh salads, juices, nuts, dried mulberry, olives, fruits, yogurts, and rose and fig jams. We won’t be surprised when the Michelin Guide comes to Cappadocia in 2026 and honors Seki and Nahita. Both restaurants deserve this high praise and are individually worthy of nomination.
Argos underground wine cellar
Carved into the rock and once a Christian refuge, a 22,000-bottle collection with over 400 different varietals can be found in the Argos wine cellar cave, a former ancient monastery. A wine tasting experience almost feels holy, in the high-vaulted cavernous dining area, with light shining through the Pantheon Dome-like oculus.
Monstrous ancient doors open to the outside world, for those who need more air, as a sommelier excites tastes buds with the world’s oldest viticulture. Guests are guided through their collection of local and international vintages, and are instructed on the best pairing bites with each varietal. Local Cappadocian varietals are exceptional – like Narince and Emir, produced from two different wine regions 20 km from the hotel, as well as Argos’s house white Nahita Dokya, and a 2023 dry red Kalecik Karasi from Kocabağ vineyard. Along the hillsides and around Argos, you can see vineyards clinging to the volcanic soils.
Down in the levels below, also find the pickling cave room filled with jams, twelves kinds of pickles, numerous pepper varieties, olives, grapes, tomatoes, and more.
Pro Tips: Two of the four days we were here, the hot air balloons did not fly due to high winds. Be sure to book your hot air balloon ride on the earlier side of your trip, in case it has to be rescheduled. Book with Brothers Balloon, a professional company who were so good that they landed the hot air balloon gently atop the trailer with grace. The best times to visit are April – June and September – October for the nicest weather.
